The tanning process during late mediaeval times

The process of tanning consisted of a number of steps, which will be described here in proper order. To start with, horns, ears and tail were removed from the hides. The next step was called 'stromen': the dirty hides were thoroughly washed by placing them in the running water of the Jeker for a few days. The next step (the so-called 'nathuiskwerk') comprised the removal of hairs and fleshy bits from the hides. This was done in a lime bath. Bacteriological impact caused the hairs and epidermis to come loose. The cleansed wet hide was then hung to dry. In the next step the innerside of the hide was stripped of flesh with scrapers or shaves. Only then could the actual tanning process begin in large, circular oak tubs. The diameter of these tanning tubs varied between 1 and 2.5 m, their height between 1 and 1.5 m.

For the production of sole leather vegetable tanning extracts were used. Between the hides the so-called 'run' (= ground oak bark) was placed and tanning water was added. As a result of the chemical impact of the 'run' the hide changed into leather. This tanning process could take 1.5 to 2 years to complete. For the production of top leather animal products, fats and oils were used. To make the hides thin and soft these had to be stained. To do this wheat bran and also dog, pigeon and chicken menure was used.

After that came the actual tanning process of the hides. By final preparation with oil or animal fat top leather was obtained. By adding minerals, especially alum (= double salt of aluminium and kalium sulphate) and kitchen salt, the finer leather varieties were tanned. These consisted mainly of skins of small animals, such as rabbits, sheep and goats. White leather was especially used to make suits of armour and harnesses.

The tanners who were involved in the production of all three kinds of leather had different names. The first group was that of the sole leather tanners, the second that of the whiteners and the third that of the leather curriers. Together with the fur workers these three groups constituted the four crafts in the Maastricht leather industry. The leather curriers were united with the cobblers and they had a communal 'luibe' (guildhall) where they had joint meetings. At first, guildhall 'In de Lanscroon' was situated at the Grote Staat, later Achter het Vleeshuis at number 39 and later still, until the dissolution of craftmen's guilds in 1795, at the Grote Gracht.

The economic significance of tanners and cobblers

From 1379 onwards, representatives of the various crafts constituted an important part of the town council and played a key role in the town's politics. In the 13th and 14th centuries the tanners operated local markets only. Until far into the 15th century the Maastricht townspeople predominantly wore so-called 'trippen', wooden shoes with leather bands or strips. Such 'trippen' were worn to protect the leather from wear and tear and from dirt. In late mediaeval times so-called turned shoes were worn. These were made from a single length of leather. From the 16th century onwards footwear consisting of two parts was produced. To start with, from soft greased leather the top part or leg, was formed. This was then pulled over a last and a sole was attached with waxed end. In excavations on the grounds of Hotel Derlon (1983) two wooden leg formers were discovered. They were probably used to bring the legs of boots to their proper widths. In a 12th century drawing a cobbler is depicted toiling away with comparable tools in an attempt to produce boots.

Around the middle of the 16th century the Maastricht leather production started to develop as an export market. In previous centuries export had focused mainly on towns in Flanders and Brabant; now export re-directed towards the east, and Frankfurt in particular. Until well into the 18th century Frankfurt remained the most important customer for Maastricht leather. The rise of other traders on the world's market and the rigid structure of organisation of the Maastricht leather workers led to a significant decline of Maastricht tanning activities during the course of the 18th century.

In that period only the leather curriers could more or less keep afloat by specialising in the production of so-called 'stevels' (i.e. ankle boots), a name surviving to the present-day Maastricht dialect as 'stievele'.
At the start of the 19th century only few tanners were still active in the Grote Looiersstraat. From historic sources it appears that Frissen, Gesondt, Nijpels and Nijst were the last representatives of a craft which from late mediaeval times to the 18th century was amongst the most important economic activities in Maastricht.